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Restaurant reviews that you read in newspapers or magazines are (almost) always about newly opened restaurants. I would like to approach this new addition to my web site by featuring established restaurants in New York that continue to offer the best food, service and ambiance to its clientele. It's not that they need additional publicity as much as I feel established restaurants deserve recognition for their continued excellence. When a building in New York is classified as a "landmark", it's usually in honor of the architect, or the historical significance of the building or some other inedible factor. But when a popular, respected restaurant is called a "landmark", well then, now you've gotten my attention. Tribeca Grill is aptly named, located in the TriBeCa area of New York in a converted warehouse. TriBeCa stands for Triangle Below Canal, appropriately a triangular area south of Canal Street. The converted warehouse which in itself has a long history in this industrial turned commercial/residential section of New York was a major factory for the Martinson Coffee Company. The first two floors of the warehouse (8,000 square feet) comprise the main dining room, and the second floor features special rooms for private parties as well as a multi-use state-of-the-art screening room. If you're wondering why a screening room, well, the remainder of the warehouse houses the Tribeca Film Center. The Tribeca Grill is owned by Robert DeNiro in partnership with restaurateur Drew Nieporent. Click here for more information on other restaurants owned by Mr. Nieporent and his Myriad Restaurant Group, Inc. Other celebrities have invested in this operation as well and include Mikhail Baryshnikov Sean Penn, Ed Harris, Christopher Walken and others. The main dining room is very impressive when you first walk up the metal steps to the entrance. The huge mahogany bar is from the once famous Maxwell's Plum which was among the first "single's bars" that opened in the late 60s and early 70s on Manhattan's upper east side on First Avenue where I was born and grew up. (The original TGIF was the first "single's bar" to open in this area) I spent quite a few evenings at Maxwell's Plum bar in my single days....so seeing the Maxwell's Plum bar in its new locale brought back some fun memories! Table placements in this huge main dining room have been thoughtfully laid out and with the very high ceiling, diners don't definitely don't feel cramped. The tables are ample in size and not on top of one another which is something I personally dislike in some restaurants. After having a well made vodka martini at the bar, we were shown to our table for two and we began the search for our dining pleasures. The menu is short and very complete. Tribeca Grill features "American Classics" with a different dish for each day; Monday: Roasted Guinea Hen w/Idaho Potato Hash; Tuesday: Cornbread Stuffed Turkey Breast w/smashed rutabagas; Wednesday: Braised Beef Short Ribs w/sauteed yams; Thursday: 1¼ pound Roasted Lobster w/ragout of vegetables & Lobster Champagne Sauce; Friday: Sauteed Soft Shell Crabs w/Vine Ripened Tomatoes & Baby Greens; Saturday: Grilled Buffalo Hanger Steak w/Chimichurri Sauce & Grilled Vegetables; Sunday: Grilled Pork Chop w/Braised Red Cabbage & Sweet Potato Puree. As it was Saturday, my husband immediately chose the Buffalo Hanger Steak. After bemoaning the fact that it wasn't Sunday and I couldn't have the Grilled Pork Chop, I chose the Barbecued Breast of Duck. As many chefs prefer to serve duck rare, I specifically asked that it be cooked a bit longer as I personally think the flavor of the duck is better when it is cooked rather than rare. Choosing the duck was no easy task as the other main dishes offered were just as delicious sounding: Grilled Halibut, Crab Crusted Sea Bass, Pepper Crusted Rack of Lamb, Crisp Baby Chicken with Lemon, and several pasta dishes as well such as Wild Mushroom Cannelloni, Saffron Fettuccini with Manila Clams and a Pasta Special for that evening which I can't bring to mind! But I"m sure it was just as inviting as the other pasta offerings. There are ample side dishes on the plate with your main course selection, but if you'd like more food to eat, there are several side dishes available to order such as Sauteed Spinach with garlic, Asparagus with roast pepper and corn relish, Japanese Sweet Potato Puree, Coconut Rice, Ragoût of Spring Vegetables (I assume the vegetables change with the seasons) and homey Whipped Potatoes served either with Roasted Garlic or Plain. The dessert menu was just as impressive and all I can say is that the thin Apple & Almond Tart with Applejack Ice Cream that I ate was beautifully presented as well as extremely delicious. My husband had an equally attractive plate which held a smooth Orange Cheesecake with Citrus Sabayon. Other dessert offerings include chocolate lovers with their Tribeca Chocolate Torte and Chocolate Cherry Hazelnut Tart with Cherry Hazelnut Ice Cream. I was also pleased to see that Tribeca Grill includes a Selection of Cheeses on their dessert menu. Cheese as a dessert course is slowly making a comeback in this country. A glass of port (several varieties available, and a well drawn espresso made the meal completely satisfying and well worth the medium/expensive cost. Oh yes, we also had a bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir which complemented both of our main dishes. The wine list has also been very well thought out by it's selections and pricing.
Chef Pintabona has been a driving force at Tribeca Grill since its inception in 1990 and continues to receive accolades for his culinary artistry as he pleases the clientele of this fine restaurant. Pintabona has trained with some of the country's most notable chefs, including Charles Palmer and Daniel Boulud. When restauranteur Drew Nieporent began his search for an executive chef for Tribeca Grill, his astute eye selected Pintabona and the rest is a successful history of Tribeca Grill. In addition to his excellence as a chef, Pintabona participates in many charitable functions in New York and has the distinction of being one of only ten chefs selected to create a spectacular menu for Julia Child's 80th Birthday Fundraiser at the Rainbow Room in New York. Pintabona appears on major network television programs demonstrating how to cook healthy and delicious recipes. His recipes and cooking tips also appear in publications such as Food & Wine, Gourmet, Bon Appetit and others. Chef Pintabona is pleased to share with us the following recipe. If you should have any questions regarding the recipe, please e-mail me and I'll be happy to help you. Beet Gnocchi w/Braised Oxtail, Wilted Spinach, Horseradish Cream Sauce Ingredients: For the Beet Gnocchi: 5 large Idaho Potatoes (peeled and cut up) 2 large Red Beets (peeled and cut small) Procedure: 1. In the same pot, boil potatoes and beets until soft, drain well, and then put through a potato ricer or a food mill. 2. Lay out on a sheet tray and put in a low oven, about 150 degrees, for about 20 minutes, or until dry. 3. When the potato and beet mixture is dry, proceed with remaining ingredients to make your pasta dough. 4. Knead dough into a ball and cover with plastic wrap and let rest a few hours. Cut ball into four sections and roll out each section into long, narrow strips. Cut the strip into 1/4" pieces for gnocchi. For the Braised Oxtail: 2-2 1/2 pounds Oxtail Procedure: 1. Season oxtail with salt and pepper and dust in flour. In a hot sauté pan, add a little oil and sear oxtail on both sides until nicely browned. Deglaze the pan with port wine, scraping all particles stuck to pan with a wooden spoon. 2. Add the browned oxtail and all pan drippings to a roasting pan with the chopped up carrots, celery, onion, garlic, orange zest and juice. Bay leaf and peppercorns. 3. Add enough veal stock to cover meat completely, cover pan with aluminum foil, and braise in a 400-degree oven until tender, about 30-40 minutes. For the Horseradish Cream Sauce: 5 large Shallots (roughly chopped) Procedure: 1. Add the six ingredients to a sauce pot, bring to a boil and let reduce by 1/4. 2. Add heavy cream and reduce by another 1/4 or until it starts to thicken. 3. Strain sauce through a fine strainer and then add in fresh grated horseradish and extract. Adjust seasoning. For the Wilted Spinach: 2 pounds Fresh Spinach Procedure: 1. Wash spinach well and spin-dry with a salad spinner (or dry well with a towel). 2. Julienne or rough chop spinach. 3. To finish the dish, toss the raw, chopped spinach into the hot pasta just before plating the dish. Spinach will wilt with the heat of the pasta, but will remain a bright color green. Note: Dish may also be finished with a mix of seasonal vegetables, that would be diced small and quickly sautéed. Yield: Recipe serves 4-8 people. Copyright © 2000 Ann Hall Every |
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