ONE BOWL OF CHILI, TWO CELEBRATIONS
from the American Institute for Cancer Research
While in Austin, Texas recently, I ordered chili. The dense, slurpy bowl of red that arrived contained honest chunks of hand-chopped meat simmered with searingly hot ground chile and perfumed with oregano. Intense aromas of cumin and garlic wafted from the steaming bowl. Only the addition of canned tomato made this different from chili con carne as it was invented in Texas, somewhere back in the 1800's.
Since this is National Chili Week, it seems appropriate to emphasize that self-respecting Texans tolerate not one bean in their chili. But as October is also Vegetarian Awareness Month, let's remember that a well-seasoned meatless chili, made only with beans, is one of the best vegetarian dishes you'll find.
In all honesty, I would cook chili, either con carne or meatless, more often if it did not take so much time. When using meat, I want it hand-chopped, so it's nice and nubbly, and chopping enough for a worthwhile pot of chili takes a while. For meatless chili, simmering the beans together with all the other ingredients until they knit together with feisty flavor is also time-consuming.
Thinking about this, and about how beans are such a great source of fiber, folacin and other good things, I set out to make a quick-cooking chili packed with the same depth of intense and balanced flavors as those which are slow-cooked.
I started with canned beans. For quick, profound flavor, the answer included a good broth. I used ground chile peppers, though you could use a prepared chili powder. (I prefer the distinctive flavor you get from the individual seasonings. Also, I have a personal aversion to the taste of dried garlic, an important ingredient in chili powder.)
At the end, I thickened the chili with masa harina. Some supermarkets, as well as Hispanic food stores, carry this meal made from dried corn cooked with a lime. It gives chili the taste of fresh tamales and adds a creamy texture. If you can't get masa, corn meal will do just fine.
Harry James, a great American musician, said, "Next to jazz music, there is nothing that lifts the spirit and strengthens the soul more than a good bowl of chili." I think this meatless version proves it.
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, cut in ½-inch pieces
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1-3 jalapeno peppers, seeded and minced
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground ancho chile, or 1 tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 15-ounce cans pinto beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup coarsely chopped canned tomatoes, drained
2 cups vegetable broth
½ cup chopped cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons masa or corn meal
Freshly ground black pepper
In a medium Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Saute the onion, bell pepper and garlic in the oil until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes.
Add the jalapeno pepper, cumin, ancho chile or chili powder, and oregano. Stir until the spices are fragrant, about 1 minute. Take care not to let them burn.
Add the beans, chopped tomatoes, all but 3 tablespoons of the vegetable broth, and the cilantro. Set the remaining vegetable broth aside. Bring the chili to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the masa or corn meal in a small bowl. Mix in the reserved vegetable broth, stirring to make a smooth mixture. While stirring the chili, blend in the corn mixture, blending it in well. Mix in a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper. Continue simmering the chili 10 minutes longer. For the best flavor, let the chili sit 1-2 hours, reheat, and serve.
Each of the four servings contains 245 calories and 5 grams of fat.
"Something Different" is written for the American Institute for Cancer Research by Dana Jacobi, author of The Best of Clay Pot Cooking and The Natural Kitchen: SOY!
Copyright © 1999 Ann Hall Every
