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RHUBARB'S NOT
JUST FOR PIE ANYMORE In an era when people chatted over the fence rather than the Internet, back yards had rhubarb patches. They may not exist in many home gardens any more, but there is a big commercial industry to supply the demand for rhubarb, from early winter through early summer, with a peak from April to June. Although rhubarb has traditionally appeared in desserts, it is now turning up in soups, stews and other savory dishes. Chefs use its tart, piquant flavor to add a bright note to many dishes as well as sauces. Rhubarb has been around for about 4,000 years, but used as a food only for the last few hundred. Native to Northern Asia, rhubarb was used for centuries for medicinal purposes. The first recipe using rhubarb has been traced to the 1783 "The London Art of Cookery," which suggests slicing the stalks and cooking them as you would gooseberries. The word rhubarb has even found a place in sports writing and, therefore, colloquial English, to describe an acidic, bitter dispute. It was originally a theater term: actors in mob scenes would say "rhubarb" over and over to simulate the angry, confused sounds of a mob. When shopping for rhubarb, look for firm, crisp, unblemished stalks with a lot of pink or red color. Field-grown rhubarb, which has more pronounced flavor than the hothouse variety, is cherry red, while the latter type is pink. The leaves should be fresh looking and blemish-free, but, because they contain toxic oxalic acid, they should be discarded when the stalks are prepared for cooking. Rhubarb is highly perishable. If you're not using it right away, wrap the rhubarb in plastic and refrigerate - but not for more than a few days. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Wrap salmon in foil and bake until cooked through, about 30 to 40 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat 1 teaspoon butter over medium-high heat until hot but still golden. Sauté carrot, onion, rhubarb and shallot until onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add wine or vinegar and boil until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add clam juice and simmer 15 minutes, until vegetables are very soft. In a large pot, place spinach, with any water clinging to leaves. Cover and cook over medium heat until spinach is wilted and just tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover and set aside. Transfer vegetable mixture to a blender and purée. Gradually blend remaining butter into sauce. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Gently squeeze most of water from spinach. Arrange a bed of it on each of four plates. Add one-fourth of salmon to each plate. Spoon one-fourth of sauce over each serving of fish. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 241 calories, 13 g. total fat (4 g. saturated fat), 9 g.
carbohydrate, 21 g. protein, 4 g. dietary fiber, 418 mg. sodium.
from the American Institute for Cancer Research Lamb is a certain sign of spring. Meat sellers say people buy fewer roasts and more cuts of lamb as the weather gets warmer. A simply roasted leg of lamb is the quintessential spring dinner. But a stew flavored with aromatic herbs is also appealing this time of year. Most cuts of lamb are lower in fat than other red meat. And lamb fat is mostly located on the outside of the cut, or between the muscles, where it is relatively easy to trim, especially from larger pieces. With proper trimming, cooking and portion size (4 ounces of uncooked meat per serving), lamb can be a delicious part of a healthful, low-fat diet. Lamb also is a good source of zinc, iron and protein. Usually, the darker the color of the meat, the older the lamb is. Good lamb has a pinkish red color and finely-grained texture. Its flavor is often delicate, even sweet. It may be the most natural commercially-raised meat, since lambs feed on their mother's milk and on grass. (Some American lamb is also fed grain.) Lamb dishes of all kinds are prepared in Mediterranean countries. The
following recipe recalls Mediterranean lamb preparations using the
strongly-flavored seasonings that go so well with lamb. And a stew is a
good way to make a little lamb go a long way. This recipe calls for lamb
shoulder, which is ideal for stews. If you can't find cubed lamb
shoulder at the market, ask the butcher to cube shoulder chops for you.
The bones make it a little harder to eat, but they will add flavor and
body to the dish. Heat a large, non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add lamb and brown, stirring frequently. If necessary to avoid crowding, do in 2 batches. Set meat aside. Add oil to pan and heat until hot. Sauté onion and carrots until onion softens, 4 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid burning. Return meat to pan. Add broth, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Cover, reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add 3 cups water. Simmer 30 minutes or until lamb is almost tender. Add orzo, raisins, sage and mint. Simmer until lamb is tender and pasta is cooked, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Adjust seasonings to taste, garnish with mint and serve. Makes 6 servings. *You can use the mint from a tea bag if it is an herbal tea and not a blend of mint and regular tea leaves or other ingredients. Per serving: 285 calories, 8 g. total fat (2 g. saturated fat), 34 g. carbohydrate, 20 g. protein, 3 g. dietary fiber, 495 mg. sodium.
ASPARAGUS REMAINS A SIGN OF SPRING from the Before refrigerated trucks and jet planes, asparagus was a springtime treat. While asparagus is now available nearly year-round, it still seems to taste best in the spring. The delicate green color of farm-grown asparagus matches the spring leaves on plants and flowers. It's easy to make, delicious to eat, high in vitamins A, B and C, and a source of iron and potassium. Asparagus has been a prized food since ancient times. The Greeks ate wild asparagus and the Romans cultivated it in their gardens, but asparagus did not become a big crop in North America until the end of the 19th century. Producing crops of asparagus takes time and patience. No asparagus is produced for the first two years after seeds are sown. In the third year, the stalks are ready to eat, but the field produces good asparagus for only a few seasons, and then the quality deteriorates. All of this makes asparagus more expensive than other green vegetables. April is the peak month for asparagus, so prices should be lower and quality high. Early, pencil-thin asparagus has a slight purple tinge at the tip and is extremely tender. In Europe, white asparagus is popular, which is grown underground, so it doesn't turn green. White asparagus spears are usually thicker and smoother than their green cousins. Shop for firm, smooth, bright green stalks with tight tips. Wrinkled spears are dried out. Asparagus is often sold in bundles bound with rubber bands. Take the bands off before storing; they make the spears sweat and spoil more quickly. Since they are grown in sandy soil, rinse the tips well. Asparagus can be kept for three or four days refrigerated. Trim the stems and store asparagus standing upright, like flowers, in a tall glass with about an inch of water, loosely covered with a plastic bag. Before cooking, trim spears by bending stalks until they break off, usually at the woody, inedible part of the spears. Use stalks of a uniform size so they cook evenly. Asparagus can be served as an appetizer, a soup, a side dish, or over
pasta, as in this dish. Cook pasta according to package directions until tender but not mushy. Drain and transfer to a large, oven-proof bowl. Spray pasta generously with cooking spray and toss to blend in to keep pasta from sticking. Place bowl in oven at a low temperature (100 to 250 degrees) to keep warm. Meanwhile, while pasta is cooking, spray a medium skillet generously with cooking spray. Heat pan over medium-high heat. Sauté onion 1 minute. Add asparagus and peas. Sauté until asparagus is bright green, about 2 minutes. Add broth and cook until asparagus is tender-crisp, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and cook until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide pasta among 4 shallow soup bowls. Top with vegetables and their liquid. Sprinkle cheese over top. Drizzle olive oil over top, add basil and parsley for garnish and serve. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 289 calories, 8 g. total fat (3 g. saturated fat), 44 g. carbohydrate, 13 g. protein, 5 g. dietary fiber, 507 mg. sodium.
LIFE IS JUST A
BOWL OF STRAWBERRIES Dr. William Butler, a 16th century English writer, wrote of the strawberry, "Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did." And when local strawberries are at their peak, it would be hard to find anyone to argue with him. As if their sweet taste were not enough, strawberries are a natural health food. The ancient Romans prized wild strawberries for their medicinal properties. Ounce for ounce, strawberries have more vitamin C than citrus fruit - a cup of strawberries provides as much vitamin C as a medium orange. A rich source of iron, potassium and fiber, they have recently been found to be a great source of ellagic acid, a powerful antioxidant and cancer-fighting agent. Take advantage of the strawberry season by buying locally-picked berries. Farmers' markets, roadside stands, or pick-your-own farms are often the best sources for the freshest, most flavorful strawberries. Strawberries don't ripen after they're picked, so look for very red berries and pass on the ones that are white around the stem or tip. Good, ripe berries should also have an aroma. And if a box of berries contains any that are soft or moldy, pass them by, too - a bad berry can spoil the whole box. While large strawberries look beautiful, the smaller ones often have more taste. Strawberries keep best refrigerated in a shallow, moisture-proof container, in a single layer on paper towel, for two to four days. Removing the stem speeds up the loss of vitamins and minerals, so wash and stem them just before using. While nothing beats popping a juicy, sweet strawberry right in the mouth, they are wonderfully versatile as part of other dishes. Strawberry shortcake is a seasonal classic and in recent years, strawberries have been paired with aged balsamic vinegar as a topping for ice cream or frozen yogurt. Strawberries can be sliced and tossed into green salads, or put in a blender with milk or plain, low-fat yogurt for a breakfast smoothie. A bowl of just-washed berries makes a good after-school snack for children. (They taste best served at room temperature.) Or try this sweet-tart strawberry chutney over cream cheese on a gingersnap - perfect for a springtime afternoon tea. In a large, non-aluminum saucepan, combine all ingredients except strawberries and almonds and bring to a boil. Cook uncovered over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes or until slightly thickened and syrupy. Add strawberries, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes or until thickened, stirring occasionally. Remove mixture from heat and stir in almonds. Spoon chutney into serving bowl. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour before serving. Makes about 2 1/2 cups of chutney, or 10 1/4-cup servings. Per serving: 140 calories, 3 g. total fat (less than 1 g. saturated fat), 30 g. carbohydrate, 2 g. protein, 1 g. dietary fiber, 14 mg. sodium.
AN OMELET WITH A
MOMMA-MIA DIFFERENCE After the heavy fare of winter, the milder days of spring call for meals with a lighter touch. An Italian-style omelet, a frittata, is a good choice for a light and tasty breakfast, lunch, or dinner. And adding a little balsamic vinegar takes it out of the ordinary. A frittata is an open-faced Italian omelet in which the ingredients are mixed with the eggs rather than being folded inside, as in a French omelet. And unlike French omelets, a frittata is firm and set rather than runny. French omelets are made individually - quickly, over high heat. A frittata is cooked slowly over low heat, and one frittata can feed everyone. Eggs are not prohibited in a healthful diet and can be enjoyed in moderation. They are an inexpensive source of protein and other nutrients. Balsamic vinegar was once available only to the leading families of the Modena and Reggio regions of Italy, who made it and shared it with a tight circle of royal friends. The name, balsamico, or balm, came from the belief that this vinegar could cure anything from colds to heart conditions. The warm sweetness of traditional balsamic vinegar comes from a long process of cooking down freshly-pressed grape juice and then aging it in a series of casks of various woods and different sizes. The finest balsamics are aged 25 years or more, like great wines. Once extremely expensive and hard to come by, balsamic vinegar is now available in most supermarkets. Quality, of course, varies. Vinegar labeled Acieto Balsamico Traditzionale di Modena is made the traditional way. You only need a few drops or spoonfuls for flavor, so buy the very best you can afford. Cook potatoes in water until done, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large, heavy, non-stick skillet, stir onions to separate them into individual rings. Place pan over medium-high heat, cover tightly, and cook onions until they wilt and stew in their juices, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly colored. Transfer to large bowl and let cool slightly. Wipe out pan. Drain cooked potatoes well and cut into small cubes. Add to onions. In a large bowl, beat together eggs and egg whites until well blended. Mix in onion-potato mixture. Mix in cheese, salt and pepper until well combined. Use cooking oil spray to generously coat saucepan used for onions. Set pan over medium-high heat and heat until hot. Pour in egg mixture, making sure onions and potatoes are evenly distributed in pan. As eggs set, keep lifting edges with a spatula or mixing spoon, tilting pan so any liquid flows to edges. Continue cooking over medium heat until set, 12 to 15 minutes. Slide frittata onto a plate. Place skillet upside down over plate. Using hot pads or mitts, hold both skillet and plate tightly together and invert so frittata is in pan, underside on top. Return to heat. Cook 3 minutes or until cooked through on bottom. Slide frittata onto a serving plate.Cut frittata into 8 wedges. Drizzle vinegar over top, garnish with parsley and serve. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 156 calories, 3 g. total fat (1 g. saturated fat), 23 g. carbohydrate, 9 g. protein, 2 g. dietary fiber, 404 mg. sodium. # # # AICR offers a Nutrition Hotline (1-800-843-8114). Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. ET, Monday-Friday, this free service allows you to ask a registered dietitian questions about diet, nutrition and cancer. The American Institute for Cancer Research is the only major cancer charity focusing exclusively on the link between diet, nutrition and cancer. The Institute provides a wide range of education programs that help millions of Americans learn to make changes for lower cancer risk. AICR also supports innovative research in cancer prevention and treatment at universities, hospitals and research centers across the U.S. The Institute has provided more than $62 million in funding for research in diet, nutrition and cancer. AICR's Web address is www.aicr.org Copyright 2002 © Ann Hall Every |
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